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HOME :
Classical Antiquities :
Ancient Jewelry : Roman Gold and Pearl Earring
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Roman Gold and Pearl Earring - OS.070
Origin: Mediterranean
Circa: 100
AD
to 300
AD
Dimensions:
1.90" (4.8cm) high
Collection: Classical Antiquities
Medium: Gold, Pearl
Additional Information: f
£3,500.00
Location: Great Britain
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| Description |
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This exquisite Roman earring is composed of
a
single pearl suspended from a gold wire,
around
which another wire has been tightly twisted. A
granulated bead has been inserted just above
the pearl, and further granulation can be found
on the hoop. This has both a decorative and a
practical function as the granulations serve to
keep the pendant in place. In ancient Rome
gold
jewellery was worn by men and women of
status,
but was especially valued by the latter as a
means of self-expression. Whereas male
jewellery was often limited to a single gold
finger
ring, women wore much more elaborate
ensembles. Indeed attempts by the state to
limit
such conspicuous display were met with
strong
resistance. In 195 BC, for example, women
actually took to the streets and protested
against
the Oppian Law (passed in 215 BC) which
attempted to curb the use of jewellery in times
of
war.
Early Roman jewellery resembled Etruscan and
Greek antecedents but by the 2nd century AD
a
discernible ‘Roman style’ had begun to
emerge.
In fact, despite their love of display, the
Romans
actually preferred simpler geometric designs to
the extravagant mythological, figural and foliate
creations of the Greeks. Goldsmiths were
active
in many centres of the Empire including Rome,
Alexandria and Antioch but there was
remarkable
homogeneity in design. Likenesses of women
wearing Roman jewellery have survived in the
mosaics from Pompeii and Herculaneum, on
Palmyran limestone funerary steles and most
evocatively on the painted funerary portraits
from Fayuum in Egypt. These images help to
remind us this earring was once worn and
treasured by a real person in antiquity.
For a comparable example with two strands
see:
F. H. Marshall, ‘Catalogue of the Jewellery
Greek,
Etruscan & Roman in the Departments of
Antiquities British Museum,’ (Oxford, 1969),
No.
2652. (AM)
- (OS.070)
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